Cabo San Lucas
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHnJCqKOeeQoVJZMrkUUwqieFr-GSoucxyPQwqPvSaYPqY4efb3QX1oe_nN2y7cvvxUeXwz1DvAqTYDY-HqzJa55jAeZRA3cd2Avi4eXnbbfuhtoOFw8_TuHANh420Wy6cNBzIGQttWgyD/s1600/cabo+arch.jpg)
I had just finished up with boat operator boot camp on the Spirit 1, when an opportunity presented itself that I could not pass up. The Houser brothers' Howard and Kenny were just celebrating getting Howards bail money back. Apparently Howard was supplying much of the poison of choice around the harbor and he was detained for that offense. The Housers were the sons of a very successful fisherman father. Mr Houser was one of the high line tuna fisherman in Southern California. Kenny learned how to be a master fiberglasser and had some boat building talents. He also owned a giant 40 ft something bow loader. Painted deep blue with big black lettering on the bow, Easy Rider. Kenny was infamous around the harbor as a rabble rouser and partier that spent more time altering his biochemistry than actually fishing, but I was not fully aware of his status when they invited me to go with them to Mexico. Kenny's 1979 yellow Ford Bronco came equipped with a detachable roof, so a convertible of sorts. It was 4 wheel drive as well and perfect for the trip..
The price of urchins took a dive and the storms were rolling in. Howard and Kenny offered to pay for my trip, I had no money but they said I could pay them back, because they knew I was good for it.. We Originally set out for Rosarita Beach, sleeping wherever on the beach, on cushions I grabbed from the trailer I was living in. Then Kenny has the idea "lets go to Cabo!!!!!" Howard and Kenny argued over it until Kenny said 'you'll tell your grand kids about this.' Kenny had been down there with his dad before, and was familiar with some of the towns on the way. I said hell yes why not, when was this ever going to happen again.
The big thing was we could buy narcotics over the counter and Kenny went ape-shit buying all the percodans he could. I tried it a little bit, bur I was content with just drinking Pacifico and throwing the bottles out of the truck. We did that only till we realized the bottles were worth more than the beer. I did not even start liking Mexico till we got about halfway down the 1000 mile trip.a
After about 400 miles of flat desert all of a sudden wham a row of 50 ft high palm trees loomed over the horizon, and I thought now this is the Mexico I came to see. Mulege was beautiful, cobblestone streets and a turquoise colored sea, in the little bay with bleached out white sandy beach. Kenny went looking for a girl he met there 10 years before Not likely I thought. We traveled through Loreto and La Paz, which were quaint little fishing villages. Cabo was our destination and I was along for the ride'
We finally hit Cabo as our water pump failed and Kenny had to learn to pronounce pumpa de agua to order a new one. The Housers knew some people that were living there working construction and living in a shack with no glass in the windows and a dirt floor. The Mexican ladies would take out their wash every morning and use that strong lye soap and a big cement water trough with some ridges in it for scrubbing. Then they would hang them on a clothes line, and they would dry quickly in the hot wind. Then I decided to give it a go, since I had only 1 pair of filthy Levis, I scrubbed the hell out of those jeans, but after I hung them up the old Mexican ladies were giggling and pointing what a lousy job I did, but I was happy with a pair of legit stone washed jeans and they looked it.
It was quite a feast we had on the Marlin the rich fisherman would catch, just to get there picture taken with their trophy fish. The pelicans would fight each other for the best pieces of Marlin, the fishermen discarded. We were invited to procure some of the marlin for ourselves. We cut steaks of them and wrapped them in foil with onions and whatever other vegetables and buried it in the coals of our fires on the beach. It was delicious. After we ate we would bury the fire in the sand and lay our sleeping bags over the warm sand for the cool nights.
The road builders of Cabo reminded me of the Aztecs as I watched them get up at the crack of dawn and using mostly hand tools cut into the rock cliffs and place the carefully shaped rock into the road and after about a month they made it quite a ways up into the multi million dollar homes. They would work till about 10 30 disappear for a few hours on a siesta and then come back work till dark...amazing.
As the Housers were spending money like drunken sailors, we ran out of money with no water pump and it looked like we were stranded. Fortunately they knew some fisherman from Santa Barbara and on one visit to the 40 ft sport fisher Sea Bear, I met this 13 year old kid who was selling contraband to the fisherman, who needed alternative medication. He rode around on a little inflatable with a 25 horse outboard. I kind of hooked up with him and he became my guide/interpreter. He spoke fluent Spanish as he grew up there, but he identified with the Americans who came down to fish and surf. His appearance was Caucasian, and his father was an old smuggler who skippered his trimaran across the gulf of California to Mazatlan and brought back pot. He spoke to me out of a pipe, because he had throat cancer and that was the way he communicated. Quite a character, he must of been in his 70s with a 40 year old wife. Jason would have me tow him with the inflatable and he would ride along the shore in his knee board jumping off the waves, until one time the motor almost fell into the water ,but I held on to it and we manged to secure it back to the inflatable. Jason carried around a wad of bills, marks, franc, pesos,dollars he would buy me drinks and when some kids stole my tennis shoes he bought me a pair of those leather sirachis. I had a interlude with a green eyed light skin seniority from mexico city, I even wrote her a letter someone translated for me, but the good catholic girl she was I was getting nothing other than a kiss unless I was serious about matrimony.
Before the water pump went out Kenny entertained himself by taxiing all the Americans between the nightclubs and restaurants. That big yellow bronco with the top down stuck out in that town then, but there were only 6 cops and they all drove around in the same car, so Kenny felt pretty safe, though we found out later we escaped just in time because those cops were out to get Kennys bronco. I used to go to the pool at the various hotels, although I had no money nobody questioned a young american lounging by the pool. One day I was lounging by the pool at the Hacienda hotel when I overheard some girls talking about Santa Barbara, so I chimed in and said ' hi I am from Santa Barbara too" so we started talking about what part and so forth. Now earlier I had heard that George Thourogood the singer guitarist was around and I actually identified from his voice at the bar. He was going on how he was going to catch a black Marlin, complaining how much money he had to pay his band, just being like he is in his songs obnoxious, but not overly so. I am not really star struck, even though I liked some of his songs so I just continued on my way. Well as I was talking to those Santa Barbara girls George got up from the bar and then one of the girls said "oh this is my husband George" he just kind of growled at me. Not sure what he was thinking, but I am sure he did not appreciate giving his wife my attention.
Well now it was close to the end of the Marlin season, and I found out from Jason and others that the rich fishing yacht owners would be looking for crews to motor their boats back to San Diego and Los Angeles, since it was an up hill run, and mostly miserable, the rich people would fly home and pay a crew to bring there boat back. A rough voyage but it was looking like that would be my only way home and I started making some inquiries when the Housers came up with 300 bucks from a friend of theirs that was vacationing in Cabo. A fellow urchin diver Brian Daily, no less. A stroke of luck. At least that what I thought then. I said goodbye to Jason and piled in the back of the bronco for the return trip.
Howard just could not let the old whore house in La Paz, which was more like a ranch, pass by without partaking in the services provided. He offered to pay for me I went thru the motions, but I was not really interested, especially after the hordes of flys that descended on the place, gave me a bad taste in my mouth, and I just paid the girl and tried to talk to her in broken Spanish. By this time Kenny was fully hooked on the percodans, he was getting more and more demanding, and impatient when we could not find a farmacia. Kenny was one of those Americans who think if they talk in English , with a few Spanish words mixed in, really loud and slow that he will be understood. Then he was so rude and obnoxious they finally told him no, and he threw a fit in Santa Rosalia. I was waiting in the truck when, one of the village locals noticed Howard and Kenny arguing in the middle of the intersection, then Kenny pulled the distributor off the truck to prevent Howard from taking off, before kenny could get his fix. That villager spoke no English put it was clear what he was saying...get the hell out of here before the federalis or local law enforcement showed up, because it would be nothing nice in a Mexican jail 500 miles away from home. Finally I had enough and I popped Kenny in the mouth, so he might come to his senses. Instead he thru me out of the truck with little but flip flops shorts and sunglasses. 500 miles of Mexican desert in front of me with no money was not what I had in mind, when I came on this trip. It was bad enough seeing the crosses on the side of the road where they buried the victims of a car wreck, since emergency services were not readily available. After a bout an hour Howard convinced Kenny to come back and get me. We were almost to the border when a freeze plug failed, and Howard had to fix it on the side of the road. This of course was after the brothers arguing , which was pretty much routine by this point. Of course Howard was a master mechanic, and he had to jack the motor up to get to the freeze plug which was no easy affair, especially on the side of the road in the desert heat. Of , course the Federales had to stop and see what they could get from us, as they fingered through the ash trays, looking for roaches, Marijuana cigarettes butts, which if they found any would give them an excuse to impound the truck for there own uses, I would imagine. They left dissapointed, and Howard finished the job.
We finally made it across the border, but we ended up with some people Kenny met, in his opportunistic way. He offered Howards mechanical services, to this guy who was a carpet layer, so Kenny could have his truck carpeted. We had to have more money wired to us, by Wes Carpenter, the unloading /broker/ go to guy when you are in trouble. We stayed there about a week and I worked on an old outboard motor, that was in the yard, while Howard did his magic fixing this guys truck. Hallaluja.. God Bless America. I never did pay Howard back for that trip. He dissapeared, and ended up in Wenatchee Washington, where his dad bought a house on Country Cub drive in East Wenatchee, where it just so happen was right down the street from my grandparents. How crazy is that.