PAGO PAGO (American Somoa)

PAGO PAGO

        Pago Pago was the last Port -o Call for the Glacier on the return trip from Operation Deep Freeze. I was determined to go diving in the tropical paradise and I was flush with cash having just won big playing blackjack. $400 was a lot of money to me at the time, in fact adjusting for inflation about $1500 in today's money.  (see Glacier Casino https://urchinstyle.blogspot.com/2017/08/glacier-casino-i-must-admit-i-had.html)    I booked a room in the nicest hotel on the island, after the big welcoming party the islanders staged for us. Complete with a band and dancing hula girls.

I proceeded to the small boat marina and asked some locals, loitering around some small boats if they could take me out to reef I spotted on the way in. I Showed them some money, they just laughed at me. Frustrated I decided to check out the shallow reef behind the Hotel. It was only 2 or 3 feet deep, but amazing visibility. I snorkeled out about 50 yards ant then all the sudden the reef just dropped off down to 100 plus feet, replete with the tropical fish aquarium scene I had envisioned. The Glacier was not far away so I swam and got my air tank and regulator.. I dropped down to 80 ft very quickly without realizing it was so deep till I looked at my gage. I was not disappointed with the diving experience.

           That evening I was walking towards one of the 2 bars I was aware of and I chased a huge bull frog I stumbled upon, soon realizing there were dozens of them everywhere. I came upon some tennis courts and smelled the distinct smell of marijuana. I heard some low muffled voices. Being 19 and not unfamiliar with the then illegal weed with a pocket full of money, I approached the group of local natives and offered them $10, if they could share. They laughed and reluctantly agreed. I noticed that one of the natives was a member of the welcoming band that performed for us, as the Glacier pulled in the docking facilities. I was trying to make conversation and asked if they had heard of Mau Tuiasosopho or Manu Tatupu, a couple of Samoan NFL football players I was aware. They said they had and knew the whole family. They then went on about some of history of the island and how it was once a german protectorate and the role it played in WW11. They also mentioned that they had found left over ordinance in some caves up in the hills.

         The front entrance of the bar was visible from our vantage point and all of a sudden some of my shipmates came flying out of the front, and Islanders started apearring out of the hills with clubs and I realized it was a bar room brawl between the locals and my shipmates. I was not inclined to get involved in the action, as I was at a disadvantage, as I had not that much liquid courage in me, and my former smoking companions giving me the stink eye. I nervously thanked my companions and made my way back to the hotel. I ordered a expensive meal and was looking forward to the luxurious queen size bed in the room I had booked. A strangle but not unattractive female sat down at my table and in a low voice propositioned me. I realized that the girl in front of me was really a guy and declined the offer.

         At that momenta BM2 with a Shore Patrol insignia on his arm entered the Hotel and said “Thomas we have been looking all over for you. Liberty is canceled, the locals attacked some crew members at the bar and some of them are hurt, get in the truck now!”

         That was the end of my Pago Pago experience. I heard later the fight was over a girl (of course) there were cuts and bruises, but nothing too serious. I was just fuming at the thought of paying all that money for the hotel room and I never got to stay.

Diving Sydney

       Sydney, Australia    

     The Glacier was due to arrive at Sydney harbor and I was so excited.  We sailed right passed the opera house, and I was anxious to go on liberty.
        I knew I would have only 5 days, in Sydney and I wanted to travel to The Great Barrier Reef.  From what I had read and seen on TV, diving on that famous reef would be spectacular and since I had the opportunity I just had to try.  I looked on a map and tried to make the logistics work so I could have at least 1 day of diving. 800 miles was a long way to travel with only 5 days and I just could nor swing it.  So I wandered around Sydney looking for a dive shop.  In those days we had to    use those cumbersome telephone books, and fold 
up street maps.
     I found one and I walked in and announced to the staff that I had just sailed in on that big red Icebreaker in the harbor and I was determined to go diving somewhere in Australia, if I could not fufill my dream dive on the Great Barrier Reef.  Much to my surprise one of the staff replied that they were headed out right at that moment to Thompsons bay, just up the coast from Bondi Beach. I asked if they could wait for me to take a cab back to the ship to retrieve my gear.  They insisted I did not have time and instructed me to just go ahead and pick my wet-suit and gear from there rental stock and so I did and off we went. I was very pleased with myself that my timing had been right on and I was not disappointed with the dive spot they chose that actually was adjacent to a clothing optional beach.  I was happy to finish my dive with a great view of that heavenly scene as the Aussie girls just seemed so attractive and had little inhibition, unlike American girls, and were very comfortable fully naked basking in the sun, on the flat rocks of Thompsons Bay.  It was not the Great Barrier Reef but the experience was well worth my efforts. As I came out of the water a group of my companions was gathered, having a great laugh and I wondered what was so funny.  They just pointed at me so I looked down and I had inadvertently, in my haste to pick out a suit grabbed a female top, complete with breasts.  The Aussies found that quite amusing.  I did not care they just took me on the dive of my life and the scenery after was well worth the embarrassment and ridicule I received.  They sent me on my way and did not even charge me for the rental on the gear